It started out at two feet, and ended with a full on wash-through second reef set. Where else does that happen but at Pipeline? Day one of Da Hui’s Backdoor Shootout was a mix of down-home club contest and steadily surging energy, as the flawlessly forecast swell mix built and built itself into the real deal at this epic surf spot.
Surfers were frothing, yet staying super aware — this season’s Pipe injury count hasn’t been lost on anyone, and when it’s your friends being driven to hospital, it becomes a question of respect. For them and for the wave. It changed the vibe of the day, though maybe that’s not a bad thing.
But as the swell built, ramping up in defined pulses through the day, some fantastic rides were had. Special mentions to Seth Moniz, Billy Kemper, Cristobal De Col, Kenshin Matsunaga, Jamie O’Brien, Noa Deane, Balaram Stack, Ivan Florence and Makana Pang for their brilliance.